Train apples and pears into shape (optional)

You really don't have to train your fruit trees into shape and some gardeners don't even at all. However, the main reason some people do is to promote the development of fruit and to keep the tree a suitable size.

Apple and pear trees should be pruned in the winter months, whereas 'stone fruits' (such as cherries and plums) are usually pruned in spring to helps prevent disease in these trees.

Wall training a fruit tree saves space, promotes fruit growth and it makes a decorative backdrop if a wall is available. The general shapes include cordon, espalier, fan, step-over and palmette.

If you are interested to learn more about how to do this, then read on. Winter is the time to start, because pruning is best done when the tree is dormant. Proper pruning and training will build a strong limb structure that can support a heavy crop and allow good light penetration for best fruit colour and sugar content.

Pruning helps shape a tree. Without it, fruit trees can become overgrown and unsightly. Fruit will be smaller and of poorer quality, and disease and insect problems will increase due to poor air circulation, poor light penetration and, if you spray, uneven pesticide applications. Poorly developed limbs can't support heavy crops, resulting in broken limbs.

Before pruning, select the proper tools. Choose a sturdy ladder that will remain stable on uneven ground and a helper to keep things steady. Use a folding saw, since it's easy to carry and efficient for cutting small and medium-sized limbs. Long-handled sheers can handle small diameter branches. Secatures are good for twigs.

Make sure all cut surfaces on the tree are smooth and clean to promote even healing of the wound. Don't cut too close to the trunk, because it can damage the tree, but avoid cutting too far away, because it leaves stubs that can be difficult to heal.

Begin training trees at planting. Most nursery stock have limited root systems. Cutting a third of the top growth back will help balance top growth with root growth, resulting in less stress. Cut most unbranched nursery trees to about two feet above the soil line. Leave only two or three well-spaced limbs on branched stock. Cut the branches back to 4 to 6 inches from the tree.

Larger trees are best dealt with by a professional arborist (look for one that is AA - Arboricultural Association approved)

Note: The most common training system for orchard grown fruit trees is the multiple leader shape, which allows good light penetration. This is not common for trees in domestic gardens, where space is at a premium. For leader shaped trees, remove excess shoots as the tree develops, leaving only three to four well-spaced limbs that grow outward at the crown and act as scaffold branches for further growth. Wide crotch angles where the limbs join the trunk will encourage stronger limbs.

Why prune?

How to prune