Does it sprout from lower down? I had a lollipop bay that sprouted and is now a bush. If you trim it hard in the lollipop shape that should stimulate any potential lower growth too...
We have a “lollypop” red robin, but prefer a lower bush shape. How drastic can we be in pruning this into said resultant shape? Can we cut down to below the current lowest branch, or will this kill the tree?
Posted: Saturday 23rd of November 2019 09:08 AM Last reply: Saturday 1st of March 2025 03:15 AM
Hi I make propogation in my house after I change pots to a bigger one after some time passes my plant grown. After the plant grows I prune it to make it like a bush with more arms but after I cut them some of them started to die. Do you any reason why its dead or what I can I do for taking care them
Hi, Bill, Yes, it can, but it will require some ongoing maintenance to 1) control its size and 2) keep it healthy. Not sure what size plant you will start with but if you have a small, young plant, plan on potting up to larger pot sizes over the next few years. It's never recommended to plant a very small specimen in a very large pot. Once you have the desired pot size/plant size, plan on root pruning the shrub every three years or so. This will keep the roots from girdling (wrapping around the inside of the pot) which will eventually cause the plant to strangle itself. To root prune, lift the plant out of the pot, prune no more than 1/3 of the root ball and then replant with fresh compost. You can expect the plant to resent this some so it might look tired for a little while after doing this. And, with any plant in a pot, especially large ones, regular feed and water is essential. Nutrients tend to leach out of compost/pots quickly so a regular fertiliser schedule (follow the recommendations on the packet of the feed you choose) is important. As far as water is considered, don't let the compost completely dry out. Hope this is helpful! All the best, Kathy C
Luke. For acid loving plants you can still use Miracle Gro, but use their variant called "ericaceous plant food" or "Azalea, Camellia & Rhododendron plant feed", they come in various application styles, soluble powder, liquid or pellets. Miracle also make "Sulphate of Iron" which is usually powdered. Phostrogen make an ericaceous variant and a number of manufacturers provide "sequestered iron". Mulching which a nice layer of good quality ericaceous compost can also help. So you have plenty of choices. Just choose something that best suits your requirements. Some plants prefer acidic (ericaceous) soil types and some do not. Rhodo's, Azaleas, Camellias are the most common that you will know but there are many others including some conifers and herbaceous plants. It is always best to do some research into this before purchase. Most centres should have the soil requirements clearly stated on their tags, but some do not. Having acid loving plants in pots is an easy way of controlling the soil type, in borders there is no reason why you cannot feed appropriately within the local planting area although it is easier if you acid loving plants are in one area. Planting initially with as much ericaceous compost as possible around the roots. Remember a simple rule, some plants must go in acid soils....most are not so fussy. For example we use a commercial form of ericaceous compost for almost all of our shrub potting.
Posted: Wednesday 3rd of July 2013 09:27 AM Last reply: Wednesday 3rd of July 2013 09:38 AM
I want to know what the best acid fertiliser to use is? I generally use miracle grow all over the garden, so should I carry on with this or should I use a specific acid fertiliser ?
Thanks
Posted: Tuesday 2nd of July 2013 07:33 PM Last reply: Thursday 10th of April 2025 02:22 PM
Spring, at the time of bud swell/break, is the best time to start spraying with fungicide, making about 3-4 applications over the coming spring months. All the best, Kathy C
Hi Judi, The hedges are at the front of the house, very open. They are in full sun during the summer months (weather permitting). During the winter when the sun is low in the sky they only get direct sun from around midday. Perhaps they have, as you say, fallen victim of the poor weather we experienced last year. I'll take a couple more pictures and add a little later. In the meantime, should I be spraying them with any kind of systemic fungicide etc?
Hi Catherine, that's a shame you feel that. Photinia does best in a sunny sight.. it's been so wet that your plants may be struggling to the conditions of relentless wet and cold. If your plants are still generally in good form, you will see new leaf buds and they will form new leaves.. If you see no signs of new growth, then I fear the plants may be on the way out. Can you confirm their planting aspect in your garden? As I say, they may be planted in too shady and cold a spot to flourish.. Have they done this in each year? Or is this a new development? Could be the dampness.. Perhaps another photo of the base and shape of the plants would be useful.. Best wishes, Judi.. :-)
Hi, On one of the links you suggested it states to remove the infected leaves - If I do this will new leaves grow in their place or will the hedge just look bare and sparse? I was recommended to have Red Robin rather than Laurel and I am starting to regret it already! Any advise you can offer would be very welcome.
Hi, My Red Robin hedge 3 years old and is generally growing well but last year it developed brown spots on the leaves. What is this and how should I treat it?
Posted: Monday 18th of February 2013 03:46 PM Last reply: Thursday 10th of April 2025 02:23 PM
Hi, Dorothy, It's hard to say - sounds like there could be a few things going on. A little more information might help pinpoint the problem. First, where is it planted? They like full sun to partial shade and neutral to acid soil. While they tolerate clay, they can't handle heavy clay that is waterlogged over the winter. Any change it was too wet over the winter? Also, they are susceptible to fungus so that could be the problem. Having said that, however, it is not unusual for plants to shed old leaves at time, even if they are evergreen. As far as the chewed leaves, if the damage looks jagged and is only along the leaf margin, it is probably vine weevil. Look for grubs in the soil around the plant. If it is vine weevil, you will want to get rid of them as they can do tremendous amount of damage to leaves and roots. Any of these things seem to fit your plant? Kathy C
The Magnolia if lovely, but we do have chalky soil, and I think the pH is the other side of neutral - will double check - so have steered away from acid liking plants. Also, while we are in a close, the wind whips around it, so I have also considered this to be a non-sheltered habitat. Is this the case? We are facing south-west so there is little shelter here too. In the gaps I do think that standard type small trees would suit the two spots, as you have mentioned, but ones which don't dwarf the other planting. Not asking much am I! After all said, would a mature magnolia suit? I do like conical furs too. Lou.
Could anyone suggest fast growing small tree/shrubs which would give me screening from the road and houses opposite (pics attached) please. This is all newly planted and not sure if Red Robin will do the trick, or even it compliments existing planting. Pic views are taken from a seat showing gaps on either side of garden where we are exposed to the world on all fronts! This is our first garden for over 12 years, and would much enjoy a secluded area to sit out in. We are also amateur gardeners. Is Leylandii appropriate? Thank you, Lou