Cordyline australis
How can I stop my cordyline growing!
Shoot User
1647 0
Stupid question I am sure you are all thinking, my cordyline has been planted for 17 years, it is over 30 feet tall. 3 years ago a shoot started forming near the base - this is now 10 feet tall and has flowers all of its own. Now I have 5 shoots coming out of that shoot and another 4 coming out of the main branch of the tree, when spotted the measured about 3 inches - they are now 18 inches 2 months later. My questions are this:
1. Can I safely remove these shoots and will they successfully reroot themselves by placing in compost.
2. Can I slow this down?
1. Can I safely remove these shoots and will they successfully reroot themselves by placing in compost.
2. Can I slow this down?
Posted: Sunday 1st of September 2013 08:47 PM Last reply: Friday 11th of April 2025 05:57 PM
12780 0
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply. These brown spots are normal and are caused by winter stress and if you have recently bought this plant...transport damage. These plants are strapped up for delivery to avoid crushing and these marks can be caused by this proceeduure. Your white powder on the trachycarpus is also normal and can be taken as a sign that the plant is healthy.
Hope this helps?
Sorry for the late reply. These brown spots are normal and are caused by winter stress and if you have recently bought this plant...transport damage. These plants are strapped up for delivery to avoid crushing and these marks can be caused by this proceeduure. Your white powder on the trachycarpus is also normal and can be taken as a sign that the plant is healthy.
Hope this helps?
Posted: Monday 9th of January 2012 10:23 AM
Re: Re: New shoots on 'dead' frost damaged tree
liz hankins
1191 0
I have now cut it down to about 5 ft where the trunk is sold and helathy and left the green shoots at the base. I am reading on line that a few people suggest removing the shoots with roots attached and potting up. Would they survive left attached to the tree I wonder?
Posted: Monday 10th of October 2011 11:55 PM
Re: Re: New shoots on 'dead' frost damaged tree
liz hankins
1191 0
Thanks Eileen
Yes I agree I will definitely wrap it. But do you think it is more likely to succumb to frost with the tall trunk above the new shoots adding to its exposed areas? And is it wasting energy still having the trunk there which may never grow shoots now...I was thinking of growing a climbing plant up it but would be very happy to see the Cordyline back as a fully fledged palm!
Liz
Yes I agree I will definitely wrap it. But do you think it is more likely to succumb to frost with the tall trunk above the new shoots adding to its exposed areas? And is it wasting energy still having the trunk there which may never grow shoots now...I was thinking of growing a climbing plant up it but would be very happy to see the Cordyline back as a fully fledged palm!
Liz
Posted: Monday 3rd of October 2011 09:40 PM
Re: New shoots on 'dead' frost damaged tree
Shoot User
1191 2
I am no expert, but I have 2 victims from 2 winters ago. 1 produced shoots at ground level the spring after, but perished finally the second winter. I'd go with wrapping. Can it do any harm? I
Posted: Sunday 2nd of October 2011 07:50 AM
New shoots on 'dead' frost damaged tree
liz hankins
1191 1
My Cordyline Australis was a beautiful mature 25ft tree until this year when it succumbed to the winter and I had to remove all the greenery and cut back the rotted wood. It is now re-shooting- but at ground level with 15 ft of trunk above it and 3 branches at the top. Should I leave them to see if it shoots higher and wrap this winter ( I did not protect it last year) or remove all the wood above the shoots?
Posted: Saturday 1st of October 2011 11:11 PM Last reply: Saturday 1st of March 2025 05:16 AM
12780 0
Hi again
I have spoken to the nursery from which I bought the plant. They said it would recover quickly if I treat it correctly. Here is their care advice:
"Cordylines can be cut back quite hard to leave just a few vertical leaves. A pair old scissors is the best thing to use. Cut leaves at the base working your way up the trunk. Try and remove as many of the damaged ones as you can. Make sure the leaves are bagged and removed form the garden (don't have them hanging around as they could be a source of re infection. NB do this before you spray as the sprays will be more effective (better coverage). Make sure you have well fertilised soil so it has plenty of nutrients to get it going. Think about mixing the soil with a good compost.The sooner you do this the sooner recovery will start. This plant should respond well to mycorrhizal tablets.
I would suggest you spray once a week with Sythane or Dithane. Make sure you use plenty of product volume so that the whole plant is treated well (get it into the close leaf blades if possible)."
They offered a 50% discount if I gave the plant a chance, which I have accepted.
I have spoken to the nursery from which I bought the plant. They said it would recover quickly if I treat it correctly. Here is their care advice:
"Cordylines can be cut back quite hard to leave just a few vertical leaves. A pair old scissors is the best thing to use. Cut leaves at the base working your way up the trunk. Try and remove as many of the damaged ones as you can. Make sure the leaves are bagged and removed form the garden (don't have them hanging around as they could be a source of re infection. NB do this before you spray as the sprays will be more effective (better coverage). Make sure you have well fertilised soil so it has plenty of nutrients to get it going. Think about mixing the soil with a good compost.The sooner you do this the sooner recovery will start. This plant should respond well to mycorrhizal tablets.
I would suggest you spray once a week with Sythane or Dithane. Make sure you use plenty of product volume so that the whole plant is treated well (get it into the close leaf blades if possible)."
They offered a 50% discount if I gave the plant a chance, which I have accepted.
Posted: Tuesday 14th of June 2011 10:49 AM
12780 1
Hi, Hans,
Cutting back all would most likely eliminate the problem (but if all leaves are affected, that could severely weaken or kill the plant!). So, I would think removing the worst afftected leaves and then spraying the rest will control the problem. You will most likely have to make the spraying a regular part of your garden maintenance - as often as the packet recommends.
Kathy C
Cutting back all would most likely eliminate the problem (but if all leaves are affected, that could severely weaken or kill the plant!). So, I would think removing the worst afftected leaves and then spraying the rest will control the problem. You will most likely have to make the spraying a regular part of your garden maintenance - as often as the packet recommends.
Kathy C
Posted: Wednesday 1st of June 2011 06:40 PM
Re: Re: Brown spots. Is my palm sick?
Shoot User
12780 1
Thanks so much to both of you for your advice. I could not find any snails, just one grey spider.
It's probably the rust then, a term which describes the spots very well. I have ordered both Dithane or Systhane fungus fighter. What worries me is the following advice I found on the internet and which basically says that I should remove all affected leaves:
"Apply a fungicide to prevent further infection on leaves that have not been infected; once a leaf spot appears, you cannot cure it. Prune away all diseased leaves before applying fungicide."
Almost all leaves are affected, so there would not be much left of the plant. Very frustrating, as I just bought this mature palm two months ago.
I checked the rest of my garden and found that my Trachycarpus fortunei shows the same spots. That's my second largest tree after the Corddylines.
Do I really have to cut back all affected leaves?
It's probably the rust then, a term which describes the spots very well. I have ordered both Dithane or Systhane fungus fighter. What worries me is the following advice I found on the internet and which basically says that I should remove all affected leaves:
"Apply a fungicide to prevent further infection on leaves that have not been infected; once a leaf spot appears, you cannot cure it. Prune away all diseased leaves before applying fungicide."
Almost all leaves are affected, so there would not be much left of the plant. Very frustrating, as I just bought this mature palm two months ago.
I checked the rest of my garden and found that my Trachycarpus fortunei shows the same spots. That's my second largest tree after the Corddylines.
Do I really have to cut back all affected leaves?
Posted: Wednesday 1st of June 2011 05:10 PM
12780 1
Hi, Hans,
Definitely look for those snails. If you don't find any, and the brown spots are slightly raised in any way, the plant could have rust. Cordylines are prone to rust and the best way to deal with it is to remove the most badly effected leaves and then spray with a fungicide - Dithane or Systhane fungus fighter will work.
Kathy C
Definitely look for those snails. If you don't find any, and the brown spots are slightly raised in any way, the plant could have rust. Cordylines are prone to rust and the best way to deal with it is to remove the most badly effected leaves and then spray with a fungicide - Dithane or Systhane fungus fighter will work.
Kathy C
Posted: Tuesday 31st of May 2011 08:34 PM
12780 0
I think there might be two causes here. The brown tips may be frost crisping (appearing during winter). The brown spots may be snail damage (appearing during spring). I had brown patches on my cordyline leaves (and my phormiums) and discovered snails lurking in the crevices between the leaves. I removed the snails and no (or hardly any) new brown bits appeared. Pulling away old dead leaves from the trunk also helps, as there are fewer places for critters to hide. If your palm is generally pert and green and putting on new growth, I wouldn't worry. But maybe there are other theories out there... XAX
Posted: Tuesday 31st of May 2011 07:59 PM
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12780 3
I have been worried about the brown tips of my Cordyline australis for a while. Now I have noticed brown spots on the lower parts of the leaves (see picture). Could this be a disease?
Posted: Tuesday 31st of May 2011 06:18 PM Last reply: Friday 11th of April 2025 01:31 PM
Re: Re: Re: Disease
Shoot User
1057 0
Thanks Ben, fingers crossed that our trees survive and that we can post pictures of healthy specimens later in the year. If I find anything else out anywhere, I'll post it.
Posted: Friday 4th of March 2011 01:53 PM
Re: Re: Disease
Shoot User
1057 1
Ive found that its due to both frost/snow and soggy roots. Its looking a little worse since these photos but now the fungus is drying out and whats left of the leaves have stopped dropping.
Ive been told to add a liquid slow release fertilizer high in nitrogen and phosphorus and to clear the root base to help air flow.
Let me know if you find anything else, Im hoping to not have to drastically prune it.
Ive been told to add a liquid slow release fertilizer high in nitrogen and phosphorus and to clear the root base to help air flow.
Let me know if you find anything else, Im hoping to not have to drastically prune it.
Posted: Friday 4th of March 2011 01:29 PM
Re: Disease
Shoot User
1057 1
We have the same problem on our trees and last weekend cut them back. I was planning to give them some liquid fertilizer at the weekend and see what happened. I am not sure if they will grow back or not and have not found any answers on the web unfortunately! Hopefully someone may respond here.
Posted: Friday 4th of March 2011 12:38 PM
Re: Re: Disease
Shoot User
1057 0
Hi Nicola
Any joy with what you think this is!?
Thanks
Ben
Any joy with what you think this is!?
Thanks
Ben
Posted: Monday 7th of February 2011 03:38 PM
Re: Disease
Nicola
1057 2
Hi Ben - can you reply to this thread and add some photos? It might help work out what is wrong. Cheers Nicola
Posted: Saturday 5th of February 2011 09:33 AM
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1057 2
I have an established tree about 18ft tall and has suddenly started to rapidly lose its tops; coming off in clumps of green, otherwise healthy looking leaves. There is also a pinkish milky sap coming through the bark at the base.
Is this the end of my tree, or is there something fast I can do to prevent it!?
Is this the end of my tree, or is there something fast I can do to prevent it!?
Posted: Saturday 5th of February 2011 09:06 AM Last reply: Saturday 1st of March 2025 12:11 PM
Re: Re: prune cordyline australis
Shoot User
1991 0
Thanks for that. Actually noticed today that one is sprouting from the bottom, so now they will get some feed, a bit of surgery and I will try to grow some patience. :)
Posted: Tuesday 29th of June 2010 07:10 PM
Re: prune cordyline australis
Kathy N
1991 1
Hi, Eileen,
They should sprout from where you cut. Those cuts look fine and will probably encourage more branching. Supposedly, the best time to do this is in winter, but others have reported doing it a various times of the year with no problem.
Kathy C
They should sprout from where you cut. Those cuts look fine and will probably encourage more branching. Supposedly, the best time to do this is in winter, but others have reported doing it a various times of the year with no problem.
Kathy C
Posted: Tuesday 29th of June 2010 06:57 PM
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1991 1
My cabbage palms took a real hit this winter. My neighbour tells me they suffered similarly about 40 years ago and recovered. However, there is no sign of any shoots so I think it must be time to prune. The question is - how much. I do not want to take them back to stumps as I like 2 trees framing the house. I have marked lines on the photo. Would this amount be OK, I wonder? Grateful for any hints.
Posted: Monday 28th of June 2010 09:57 AM Last reply: Saturday 1st of March 2025 05:16 AM
False sense of security
Shoot User
754 0
Hi Katy
- thanks for your advice. As you say, it would be a shame to lose my Corydyline now so this time will give it a winter coat. Very excited about it's first blooms :)
Having been through at least 8 winters, I sort of assumed that being in a sheltered spot, walled garden, south-west facing London climate, it would cope. But then our winters til the last one have led us into a false sense of security.
- thanks for your advice. As you say, it would be a shame to lose my Corydyline now so this time will give it a winter coat. Very excited about it's first blooms :)
Having been through at least 8 winters, I sort of assumed that being in a sheltered spot, walled garden, south-west facing London climate, it would cope. But then our winters til the last one have led us into a false sense of security.
Posted: Friday 14th of May 2010 09:44 AM Last reply: Friday 14th of May 2010 09:44 AM
Cordyline australis
Shoot User
754 1
Hi Laura,
Fantastic news that your cordyline survived the winter! Many were not so lucky this year. These plants tend to flower once they are well established. How long this takes can depend on growing conditions, the site, temperatures etc. and of course can vary from plant to plant.
I'd be inclined to give it protection next winter if I were you. It would be such a shame to lose it and have to start all over again after it finally reaching flowering maturity.
Hope this helps.
Katy
Fantastic news that your cordyline survived the winter! Many were not so lucky this year. These plants tend to flower once they are well established. How long this takes can depend on growing conditions, the site, temperatures etc. and of course can vary from plant to plant.
I'd be inclined to give it protection next winter if I were you. It would be such a shame to lose it and have to start all over again after it finally reaching flowering maturity.
Hope this helps.
Katy
Posted: Tuesday 11th of May 2010 02:22 PM Last reply: Tuesday 11th of May 2010 02:22 PM
First time flowering
Shoot User
754 1
Just noticed today that my Cordyline Australis (Cabbage Tree) has a long spike of buds emerging from the crown. It's about 8-9 years old and this is it's first time.Is it usual to take so long to flower?
Came through the winter unprotected (no fleece covering) and unharmed. This was it's severest winter yet - maybe the shock has forced the flowering.
Came through the winter unprotected (no fleece covering) and unharmed. This was it's severest winter yet - maybe the shock has forced the flowering.
Posted: Sunday 9th of May 2010 12:16 AM Last reply: Thursday 27th of February 2025 02:13 PM