Anemone coronaria 'Bordeaux'
Growing Tips - Anemone coronaria article
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Edited highlights of Sarah Raven's article in the Telegraph are below but you can read the full article on their website, always good for plant growing guides: www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/gardeningadvice/4512002/Spring-colour-in-velvet.html
We planted these knobbly fat corms into their pots in September and it's usually in early Feb that they first appear in a frost-free greenhouse. To get them off to a fast start, soak the corms in water overnight before planting. Rehydrated, they have a bit of give and they germinate and come into growth much more quickly.
They like a rich, loam-based soil in their pot... Plant them shallow, in a pot with decent depth – they have quite a deep root run – placing them claws upwards, about 2in deep and about 4in apart. Water them well on planting and then leave them be, checking occasionally that the soil is not bone dry, but don't overwater. They'll rot if too wet, but need moist soil and will take 10 to 12 weeks from planting to flowering.
Unlike hyacinths, anemone bulbs don't need pre-chilling to flower, but they grow more vigorously if you chill them for about six weeks (at around 41F) once planted. I reckon that's about what they get over the winter in my greenhouse. They can have, but don't need, a spell in the dark, but once the leaves begin to emerge, bring them into bright light. To flower best they need good light intensity, and will sulk in a dull corner.
You can plant these anemones whenever you want. Put them in in spring for flowers in early summer, in early summer for autumn and in autumn for flowering now. They make great cut flowers which last two weeks if you keep them cool and put a drop of bleach in their water. Unlike most bulbs – or corms – if you pick one flower, another will emerge soon from exactly the same spot. The root seems to pump out flowers for months at a stretch.
We planted these knobbly fat corms into their pots in September and it's usually in early Feb that they first appear in a frost-free greenhouse. To get them off to a fast start, soak the corms in water overnight before planting. Rehydrated, they have a bit of give and they germinate and come into growth much more quickly.
They like a rich, loam-based soil in their pot... Plant them shallow, in a pot with decent depth – they have quite a deep root run – placing them claws upwards, about 2in deep and about 4in apart. Water them well on planting and then leave them be, checking occasionally that the soil is not bone dry, but don't overwater. They'll rot if too wet, but need moist soil and will take 10 to 12 weeks from planting to flowering.
Unlike hyacinths, anemone bulbs don't need pre-chilling to flower, but they grow more vigorously if you chill them for about six weeks (at around 41F) once planted. I reckon that's about what they get over the winter in my greenhouse. They can have, but don't need, a spell in the dark, but once the leaves begin to emerge, bring them into bright light. To flower best they need good light intensity, and will sulk in a dull corner.
You can plant these anemones whenever you want. Put them in in spring for flowers in early summer, in early summer for autumn and in autumn for flowering now. They make great cut flowers which last two weeks if you keep them cool and put a drop of bleach in their water. Unlike most bulbs – or corms – if you pick one flower, another will emerge soon from exactly the same spot. The root seems to pump out flowers for months at a stretch.
Posted: Saturday 7th of August 2010 01:29 PM Last reply: Thursday 12th of September 2024 06:38 AM