STOP: Make sure you get the “Right Plant, Right Place.”
90% of plants die because they were the wrong plant choice. Shoot helps you to save valuable time and money to get the right plant choices for any garden.
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Hi, Tamara, Though a narrow, upright cultivar, 'Dawyck Purple' is still a good sized tree when mature so I wouldn't plant anywhere close to a house. Even small trees should be a minimum of 5 meters away from a house (and many experts think that is still too close). Kathy C
I want to plant a fagus dawyck purple beside my house on a south facing side. I want to know if the root system will try to break into my foundation or if it is safe.
Posted: Wednesday 23rd of March 2011 01:39 AM Last reply: Friday 28th of February 2025 04:45 PM
Hi, Christie, The beauty of F. sylvatic, no matter what the cultivar, is they can be very happy shaped and pruned into hedges, etc so the ultimate size you want them to be is perfectly doable. Best time to shape them is late summer, preferable August. Prune this year if their branch structure is uneven or asymmetrical. If the branch structure is uniform, don't prune much since right now you want the plant to be full, lush & thick when leafed out.In the second year, correct misplaced shoots by heading back the longest branches to your desired height or spread. Cut at an angle, slightly above a leaf node or bud. By third year, taper the trees ever so slightlyas you go up to make sure the lower branches get sunlight ( I say this assuming they will be planted close to one another like a hedge - if not, this isn't truly necessary but can't hurt at all). Cut the leader when the trees have reached the desired height. Kathy C
I planted 3 of Fagus sylvatica Dawyk Purple this winter & want them to grow into 2m wide cylinders approx. 3m tall. How & when would I prune them to create this effect? I'm concerned about pruning the leader.
Posted: Wednesday 30th of June 2010 11:54 AM Last reply: Saturday 29th of March 2025 10:25 PM
Hi, Andrea It is perfectly normal for a newly planted tree to leaf out/bloom later than established trees. Your young tree is most likely still recovering from planting - making up for root damage/loss, loss of moisture, etc. As for Fagus sylvatica, I had to track the seasonal progress of an 'Asplenifolia' and a 'Riversii' back in my uni days. Both trees were mature, at least 30 years old. On both, the buds didn't swell until the very end of April, with leaves fully out by the second week of May. Given that, I would say your little guy probably just needs more time. If in a couple of weeks you are still concerned, you can give a few little tests to see if the tree is alive. First, test for branch/twig flexibility. Gently bend a twig, if it bends without snapping, it is a good sign the tree is still alive. Also, carefully scrape away the top layer of a very small section of 'bark' or twig surface. If you see a thin layer of green underneath, you are looking at a healthy cambium layer that transports food, etc. Green - it's alive, no green and I am afraid you will need a new tree. If you want more info about what to expect with newly planted trees, I think this link is quite useful. http://www.mulhalls.com/brochure-careoftrees.asp?section=4 Good luck and let me know how your tree is fairing. Kathy C.
Posted: Thursday 30th of April 2009 06:19 PM Last reply: Thursday 30th of April 2009 06:19 PM
We planted our purple beech Summer last year, it is still waiting to bloom, and brown leaved. All the other beech trees in our area are turning green and we are concerned that it isn't going to come to anything. How long does a fairly new tree take to bloom? there are buds but have beens for a number a months. I look forward to any comments
Posted: Wednesday 29th of April 2009 10:48 PM Last reply: Friday 28th of February 2025 03:13 PM
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